Picking your own flowers – If you are picking your own flowers, it is best to do it in the morning or at night. The sugar reserves in the stems are at their highest in the morning or at night. Ideally, the best time is early in the morning when the flower stems fill with water after the cool night air. You should never pick flowers in the middle of the day when the sun is hottest.

The heat of the sun reduces the water content in the stems and the flowers will not last as long. If it has been raining and the flowers are wet, shake them gently to remove excess water. Too much water will often damage flowers, especially flowers with delicate petals.

When to pick flowers- Most flowers should be picked when they are in bud or half open. Then you will have the pleasure of seeing them slowly open. The color of the petals should start to show. If they are gathered too tightly into the bud, they may never open. This is especially true of tulips and roses. The green spiky sepals around the base of the rose should start to turn downward. Lilies and daffodils should be half open. Gladioli should be picked when the bottom three or four florets are open and the top florets are still in bud. Carnations, dahlias, marigolds, hydrangeas, camellias, gerberas, and chrysanthemums should be picked when fully open.

Fill a plastic bucket one-third to one-half full with warm water. Warm water should be used as flowers absorb warm water more easily than cold. It is preferable to add a preservative to the water. (The use of condoms is explained in detail later). The flowers only drink through the ends of the stems and not through the sides of the stems, and for this reason the buckets should not be filled to the top with water, as the foliage left on the stems below from the water line will rot and contaminate the water. . This will cause bacteria and the flowers will die more quickly. The foliage of marigolds, chrysanthemums, marigolds, and daisies give off a particularly strong odor when allowed to sit underwater for a period of time.

Take the bucket of water to the garden with you. Use a sharp pair of pruning shears and cut the flower stems at an angle – a slanted cut allows for better water intake. Remove all foliage from the bottom of the stems that would be below the water line. Place the flowers immediately in the water.

Flowers never crowded. Allow enough air to circulate between each flower. Too many flowers crammed into a bucket can cause the petals to get crushed and bruised. Put the bucket in a cool, dark place and let the flowers take a long drink before putting them in. When picking short-stemmed flowers, use a smaller container.

Flowers and Foliage Conditioner – Allow the flowers to take a good drink for four to five hours, preferably overnight before arranging. This step is called conditioning. Allow the stems to fill with water and the flowers to become crisp. These flowers will last twice as long as those that have not been properly conditioned.

Flowers bought – Purchased flowers should be placed in warm water as soon as possible. Remove the wrapping paper, as the paper can bruise the flowers and the cellophane can cause them to sweat. When cut flowers have been left out of water for an extended period of time, cells begin to form on the cut ends of the stems, which will prevent the stems from absorbing water easily. To remove this sealed portion, cut about 1″ (2.5 cm) off the stem ends and then place in water, preferably with added preservative, and allow the flowers to take a long drink before placing.

They may give you flowers when you are away from home. It may take several hours before you can place them in the water. The best way to keep flowers fresh is to place them in a heavy-duty plastic bag with a bit of water in the bottom. Secure the bag with an elastic band. Another method is to wrap the flowers in damp newspaper. If you travel by car, place the flowers in the coolest place. As soon as you get home, cut the ends off the stems again, place them in water and let them condition overnight before arranging.

Condoms – A flower preservative helps destroy bacteria in the water. Flower condoms are available at garden centers or supermarkets. Another alternative is to use a capful of household bleach on the water. If a preservative is not used, the water should be changed and the stems cut at an angle every day. If a preservative is used, the stems do not need to be cut back and the water needs to be changed only about twice a week. Flowers such as freesias, carnations, and lilies have many buds. By using a condom in the water, you help develop the buds so that they open.

Special treatment – Special treatment must be given to certain flowers to give them the greatest possible life. Flowers with woody stems do not absorb water easily. Woody-stemmed flowers include lilacs, hydrangeas, and rhododendrons. To help break up the thick fibers, you can split the ends of the stems up about 5 cm. (2″) After this treatment, place the stems in a bowl filled with warm water and give the flowers a long drink before arranging.

Flowers with Milky Stems – Poppies, poinsettias, and dahlias have a milky fluid that flows through their stems. To seal in this liquid and make the flowers last, the ends of the stems should be placed over a flame such as a candle, lighter, or cigarette lighter. Hold the stem end over the flame for about thirty seconds until the stem end turns black. Flowers should be held at an angle to protect the delicate petals. Another method is to submerge the stems in boiling water for about thirty seconds. Hold flower heads at an angle and protect petals from steam by wrapping newspaper around flowers. Immediately place the stems in warm water and give the flowers a long drink before arranging. If the stems need to be cut again later when arranging the flowers, you will need to repeat the steps above. To prevent this, you can cut the stems to different lengths before sealing the ends of the stems.

Bulb Flowers – Certain flowers grow from a bulb. These include tulips, daffodils, jonquils, daffodils, lilies, and hyacinths. These flowers usually have a white part at the ends of the stems. Cut off this white portion before conditioning as only the green part of the stem can absorb water. Daffodils, jonquils, and daffodils have a thick sap that oozes from the end of the stems when cut. Clean it before placing the stems in water. Keep these flowers separate from other flowers when they are being conditioned as the sap can affect other flowers. The thick sap can clog the ends of the stems and prevent water absorption. Place the stems about 7.5 cm apart. (3″) of water and let stand at least six hours before arranging. Bulb flowers prefer shallow water. If daffodils, jonquils, and daffodils are placed in deep water, the thick stems can collect water and the stems will wilt and the petals go from paper.

Dead flowers- Wilted flowers can often be revived by placing the stems in fairly hot water up to the flower heads. After the water has cooled, allow the flowers to sit in the water for a few hours before arranging. Roses can often be perked up by floating the entire stem, head and all, in warm water for half an hour.

Copyright 2002 by Fay Chamoun I give permission to publish this article, electronically or in print, provided the resource box is included with a live link.